Reptile pet habitat tricks? There are two main subspecies of Hermann’s tortoises. The Western Hermann’s tortoise is the smaller of the two, reaching lengths of about six to eight inches. The Eastern Hermann’s tortoise is a bit larger at 11 inches when fully grown. Despite the size differences, the care requirements for each subspecies are identical. They come from similar environments. Generally, you can find these tortoises living on rocky hillsides or lush evergreen forests. In captivity, replicating that natural habitat is crucial. They need plants and rocks to thrive. Of course, a hide box for protection is important as well. Hermann’s tortoises can tolerate a relatively wide temperature range. They do best when daytime temperatures are between 80 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. But, they can tolerate nighttime temperatures as low as 60 degrees.
Fortunately, many pet snakes will accept dead prey. If yours does, consider keeping a separate small freezer for what are delicately called “prey items”. Dead mice and rats of various ages can be purchased in frozen packages through pet supply stores and directly from people who breed “feeder” mice. For health reasons, it is best to keep your snake’s dinner separately from your own foods. Depending on the snake, she might scarf down three or four at one meal, or she might only eat one. You’ll need to keep half a dozen on hand, in any case. Try starting with prey items that are about the same size around the middle as your snake is. If your snake won’t touch dead prey items, try wiggling the meal a bit, to make it move. Also, try putting a piece of fabric over the tank as a “privacy curtain”. Sometimes one or both of those will do the trick. If that fails, you might need to feed your snake live prey. This is more complicated, and not for the faint of heart. You’ll need to watch the snake hunting and killing the larger prey, because it is dangerous to the snake to leave an adult rodent alone with her. The panicked creature could injure the snake with its claws and teeth.
Mexican alligator lizards need a pretty humid environment, and a level of 80 percent is the sweet spot. Humidity levels that stray too far away from that number can lead to serious health complications for Abronia graminea. You have a couple of options for keeping the humidity level so high. You can use a hand mister twice a day, or you can install a special reptile fogger. Having a good substrate and putting plants in the enclosure can help with humidity as well. It might take a little bit of trial and error to find the right setup that keeps things stable (and saves you from misting more than you have to). Mexican alligator lizards will drink the water droplets that form after you mist the enclosure, so you won’t need to create any special kind of watering system for them. That makes them rather low-maintenance in this regard! The only thing you need to consider is ensuring that the water you’re misting the enclosure with is safe. Make sure it’s free of chlorine or other harmful chemicals, and your pet will be just fine. Find more info at reptile pet habitat guides.
Accurate thermometers and thermostats are essential. We recommend using dual probe digital thermometers to monitor the warm part and the cool part of the tank. A source of ultraviolet light, either through exposure to unfiltered, natural sunlight, or an artificial UVB light will help prevent metabolic bone disease. Remember to replace the light regularly (every 6-12 months) as it will lose UV strength, even though it still emits visible light. The enclosure should be large enough for your bluetongue to move around freely and a clean, good quality substrate, replaced regularly, will encourage it to burrow. Be careful of woodchips, coarse sand, kitty litter and tanbark as they often get eaten by mistake and cause impactions. We recommend newspaper or butchers paper as a safer option.
The red-footed tortoise comes from Central and South America. It’s steadily gotten more popular in the reptile trade. Thanks to its active nature and unique appearance, this type of pet tortoise is quite popular among collectors and beginner reptile fans alike. These tortoises get their common name from the distinct coloration of their skin. The legs feature several brightly colored scales. The red scales are sporadic, creating a spotted appearance. You may even see some tortoises with red along the face and head. The carapace is more muted. The raised scutes are typically dark brown, black, or gray. However, the raised center usually features a splash of light tan. Red-footed tortoises are long-lived creatures. With proper care, most will live anywhere between 30 and 50 years in captivity! Discover even more info on https://reptilehq.com/.